Osteria Du was an exciting addition to Toronto’s vegan food scene when it first opened in 2021, and it offered something that, at the time, no other restaurant did – a completely plant based Italian menu. It’s location on one of the city’s most prominent commercial strips – Queen West – also signalled a further mainstreaming of vegan cuisine.

Unfortunately, Toronto’s over-inflated and unrealistic rents have forced Osteria Du to close its doors. As an enticing consolation, the team behind Osteria Du seems to be re-directing its efforts into a sister venture, with the launch of a cocktail lounge, now open on the second floor of the downtown Victorian townhouse that houses Avelo. And, on an even brighter note, the Italian torch has been passed, with the launch of Il Vegano, a vegan trattoria, just down the street from Osteria Du’s former location.

Vegan and Italian seems like a logical and easy fusion. Dried pasta is typically vegan anyway, as are many breads – two key carb components that form the hearty basis of this cuisine. Italian cooking often emphasis simple fresh ingredients, used with precision and cooked to perfection, rather than a long, complicated list of exotic products. That is to say, vegan Italian cuisine is easy to do, but not necessarily easy to do well, and certainly takes some effort and innovation for it to truly stand out.

Il Vegano does very well at standing out, and no part of the experience, the space, or the menu felt cookie cutter. The Queen West facing, bright purple sign, a colour motif that continues inside, amidst a slew of prominent and flashy restaurants and venues, catches the eye immediately. Bucking the trend, Il Vegano, has also very clearly defined itself as a plant-based eatery – it’s marked in bold on the sign. This joyous embrace of veganism is also be reflected in the menu, which, in true Italian fashion, celebrates produce and simple ingredients.

To start with, I’d recommending coming hungry. Having at least three courses almost feels mandatory in this kind of dining environment. The menu is extensive, and the portions are not small. For the antipasto, I was immediately drawn to the Polentine, a serving of polenta fries, paired with a chipotle aioli dip. I love polenta fries, and, in my opinion, it’s a dish that doesn’t appear on nearly enough menus.

The Polentine came out as a perfectly shaped, jenga-like stack, topped with sprigs of fresh herbs. The fries had an even golden hue, and the visual proficiency was matched by the flavour and texture. The delicate crispness of the outside lead to a soft, warm interior, and the seasoning was subtle, allowing the natural flavour of the cornmeal to shine. While the Polentine was deep fried, it had a clean and fresh taste, and paired well with the moderately spicy aioli. My only complaint, which is not really a complaint at all, was that it was perhaps too filling for an antipasto.

For a drink, I ordered an Il Vegano Spritz. I’ve never really like Aperol Spritzes very much and find them too bitter, but a well-made cocktail can really shift your perception. After my dining experience at Pastan, another fine plant-based Italian restaurant, in London, I learned that it is not so much that I don’t like Aperol Spritzes, but rather that I probably just hadn’t a good one. Il Vegano’s Spritz confirmed this theory – I did enjoy it, and it served very well as a palette cleanser, and a mild, but effective digestif.

Next came the primi course – a heaping pile of Spaghetti Alla Carbonara. The signature creaminess of carbonara comes from emulsified pork fat and egg, yet this carbonara proved that it is entirely possible to create the same luxurious consistency using entirely plant-based ingredients. I felt it could have had a bit more of the meat substitute, and its salty flavour might seep into the sauce, but otherwise this dish was an indulgent delight, and evoked the mood and sensory richness of Italy.

As much as I would have liked to sample something from the Secondi or Insalata courses, my stomach just couldn’t handle it. Instead, my heart and mouth opted for dessert. There were two options for dessert, creme brulé and tiramisu – a difficult decision for sure, but I went for the tiramisu. In a meal of high points, the tiramisu was the highest of the high. The texture was luscious, with a solid crunch to the bottom cookie layer.  The flavour was very balanced, and it had just the right amount of sweetness.

After three delicious courses, I was euphoric and beyond satiated. The service was fast, friendly, and attentive, and I left already eager for my next visit.